nsongwe village

I mentioned in the newsletter that I would post this paper I had to do. So enjoy! But keep in mind, if the writing style comes across as a little report like, it's because.. well.. it is! :)

Liz DeZeeuw Cross Cultural Communications Village Overnight Assignment

The truck pulled up to the church and all eight of us climbed out the back with our day packs on and the air was filled with excitement as yelled “I’m with teddy!” “Slumber party at wezi’s house!” “Where are we going?!” Stephanie and I silently stood beside each other. Neither of us knew exactly who Humphrey is, or how many people are in his family, or how old he is. We said goodbye to our teammates and stood by the patch of tall, skinny grass patiently waiting for Pastor Joseph to finish a conversation before walking us to Humphrey’s house. The strong, hot wind threw dust in our eyes and made the grass break out in a dry, cracking symphony of noise. We looked at each other and communicated the exact same thought “How did we get here? Spending the night with villagers in the middle of Zambia?”

Joseph led the way down the path, pulling his bike alongside him and told us that Humphrey was out working at the Cuiro mart but that his wife Listar (who is 23) should be home. We walked into the empty courtyard and stood there for about two minutes before Listar walked in from behind the grass fence. She smiled and introduced herself and within seconds, entered her house and exited with two bright chitange’s for both Steph and I. She then congratulated us on looking like “real African women.” Joseph then excused himself and Listar made us comfortable on a mat. She then introduced us to her seven year old daughter, Yvonne, and her 1 year and 8 month year old daughter, Katherine. It wasn’t long before the whole courtyard was full of at least ten of Yvonne’s friends, who heard that there were white folks around. Steph and I said hello and then asked Listar if she needed help preparing dinner. Listar was greatful for the offer and put us to work! We took turns pounding the groundnuts and smooshing dried cabbage into a green powder that covered our hands. After a half hour or so of observing us, Yvonne and her friends felt brave enough to approach the muzungus. I practiced my Tonga and introduced myself to every kid and asked them their name which varied from the simplest name to one with about 27 letters (not really, but it sounded like it) During this time, Stephanie advanced onto the fine art of nshima and I practiced being bold singing. I sang to the kids hoping that they knew Bombelela or any other song we learned from Jack and Wezi and just my luck, they did! So we sang for quite some time and they attempted to teach me songs I didn’t know. They also taught me new dances and Listar got a kick out of watching us perform together. As soon as the meal was ready, Listar presented us water to clean our hands and arranged our table settings. Stephanie and I sat down and dipped our nshima in the green goo that we helped prepared and exchanged glances with eachother that said ‘here goes nothing’ as we popped the little mealy meal balls in our mouths. It was delicious!!! We both told Listar how much we liked it and how this was our favorite Zambian meal yet. Dinner lasted almost an hour, of us just talking and playing with the kids. Katherine, the youngest daughter, at this point still hadn’t dared to look at us. Stephanie and I made many attempts to talk to her but even if Yvonne or Listar would sit her next to us, she would start whining and crying.

After dinner we helped clean dishes and shortly after cleaning, Humphrey walked in. With him home, and Step and I now feeling comfortable enough, we had some of the best conversation under the stars. We asked him straight out what he thinks about the Western culture versus Zambian culture and he was more than happy to share. We discussed the manner of dressing and how what westerns wear that is “comfortable” isn’t always “appropriate.” We also discussed the ideas of dating, and what dating is and how it doesn’t really exist in Zambia. He told us about the tradition of going to the elders of a woman you wish to marry, and asking their permission before even making yourself known to the woman. We told him how much we like the fact that Zambians live in community and how in America, you might not even know your neighbor who lives on the other side of the fence. We talked about his work hours and the cuiro mart and how flexible they are versus Americas nine to five mentality. We also talked about food, of course, and how Africans don’t really like spicy things compared to the westerner’s pallet.

The conversation went on and on and we came to talking about our faith. Listar grew up singing in the church choir and was saved when she was ten years old, and then baptized when she was twelve. Humphrey told us that he was raised in a religious Christian household but didn’t have an understanding of salvation until he was twenty five. He was introduced to Pastor Dragon through his parents and with Pastor Dragon, he has started to pastor over a church for a little over a year now. Listar and Humphrey were married in 2001 because he “impregnated her” but you can tell through their interactions that they deeply love and care for one another. He loves his two daughters very much and would like one more child – hopefully a son!

Stephanie and I asked about the village and the roles individuals assigned but we didn’t find out too much other than that there are six headmen who live in Nsongwe and it is all ruled under one head chief.

We also asked about legends and Humphrey told us a few stories about witch doctors and practice they have dealing with water being poured onto babies at birth and then at funerals, before your body is buried, they pour water on the ground, representing that same life/death water. He also told us that when a woman is widowed, it is very likely that her husband will haunt her, so she needs to stay indoors for two weeks to be cleansed of him.

As the night carried on, and Yvonne & her friend fell asleep in Stephanie and I’s laps, we too grew weary. Listar and Humphrey made us very comfortable in their spare hut and placed our backpacks and sleeping bags there, along with a candle. Stephanie and I fell asleep content and happy that night, thankful for the amazing conversation and food we got to share with Listar and Humphrey.

The next morning, we woke up to a very loud Zambian radio and the clanging of dishes. We walked out of our tent to Listar making tea and wishing us a good morning. Humphrey walked out of the house and greeted us and we all ate bread and tea for breakfast. We asked Listar what is next on her to do list for the day, and she said fetch water. Excited, we asked if we could help, which she laughed at and said of course. As we found empty jugs to fill, Humphrey said goodbye to us and he left to go back to the curio mart for another days work. Listar, Stephanie, Yvonne and I wondered out of the yard and across Nsongwe to the well, saying good morning to anyone who passed by along the way. At the well, we were greeted by a rowdy bunch of kids who just wanted to touch us. Steph and I took turns pumping water after watching the elderly; more experience ladies fill a large jug in under a minute. Once our jugs were full, we triumphantly walked home, with the muzungus trying to balance the water on their heads. As soon as we got home, we heard the familiar voice of our teammates and looked up to see them walking towards us from across the village road. Stephanie and I could not have possibly thanked Listar enough for her generosity and hugged Yvonne goodbye. Katherine, still at this point, didn’t want to look at us. (oh well!)

In conclusion, the night in the village has been one of the best nights of this whole AMT experience. Humphrey and Listar’s open attitude and warm heart towards us made any insecurity or worries vanish within seconds. And, I would love to do it all over again!